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*If you only read one thing on this website, read THIS entire page and The Teacup Myth page.
Zoning
Before you even consider a pet pig it is a MUST to make sure that where you live is properly zoned for pigs. Pigs are considered exotic or livestock in many counties and you need to make sure that they are legal to keep within your city or county's limits. If you obtain the pig before doing this research, there is a high probability that the city will take your pig away from you. This is devastating and another reason pigs end up in rescues or shelters so frequently. Every city within a given state has different zoning regulations, these regulations can even change year by year. So just because a pet pig was allowed a few years back, it does not necessarily mean that you will be allowed one now. So make sure to call your city before deciding on a pet pig! If someone in the city office tells you that you ARE zoned correctly or that pet pigs ARE allowed, write down their name, date and the information you were told. If some one makes a complaint against your pet and you come to find out you were given misguided information, having all these details may just save you and your pet pig!
No one that rents should own pigs without a written consent from the owner or management company. This is to cover both parties in the event of the pet destroying something in the home or apartment. If your landlord agrees to a pet pig, get it written in an official letter or amendment to your lease. This is to protect YOU and your pet if all the sudden the landlord decides he wants to change his mind. Be very clear on the details of what they will allow and an appropriate pet deposit. You want the deposit to actually be appropriate for a pig, in the instance your pig does accidentally cause a lot of damage to the home/rental property (this CAN happen even more so than with destructive dogs). Pigs really don't make good apartment pets, contrary to what a lot of breeders will try and tell you. Pigs are naturally destructive because of their natural need to root and can tear apart your home in a few hours. We have known first hand, pigs that have ripped up carpet, open fridges and raided them, open/destroyed cupboards, ripped up clothes, beds, pillows, couches and have even chewed through the walls and baseboards. Although not all pigs
do this, you have to expect and plan for a pig that will need patient guidance and training to become a good house pet.
Life Span
On average, the life span of a pot belly pig use to be considered 12 - 15 years. The truth is, that nobody knows for certain because potbellied pigs have only been in this country since 1985. We hear from more and more people with pigs living to be 18-20. As long as the pig is well cared for, disease free and not obese or underfed at ay point, your pig should live from 15-18 years, on average.
Housing Requirements
Indoors
Pot belly pigs are curious and intelligent animals. If your pet pig is going to be a house piggy then you will need to 'pig proof' your house just as you would for a toddler. They will chew on anything and can open just about everything so check those electric cords, ‘child proof’ those cabinets and your refrigerator, and make sure you check all your furnishings. Pot belly pigs like to rub and/or scratch against anything (like walls and furniture) so be sure anything that can be knocked over is secure. They are much stronger than one would think! An indoor pig pet left alone all day can get very bored, particularly younger ones less than 5-6 years old. As pigs age they do slow down, just like humans. Remember they are curious and also love to root (this is a natural behavior). In order to amuse himself, he/she may end up rooting the floor or carpet apart, chewing on the walls and opening kitchen cupboards. Many have even figured out how to open the refrigerator! Typically Pet Pig Education does not suggest that pigs be primarily indoor pets, we have had a select few or special needs pigs, end up indoors and are thriving. This takes a special person, who is home a lot and the patience of a saint! We recommend that pigs be purchased in pairs and live outdoors in appropriate enclosures. If you must keep your pet pig indoors, we have a few starting suggestions to help out.
You will need to locate a small room (we usually suggest a not frequently used guest bathroom, the laundry room or mud type room), that will allow limited space initially for your piggy to roam and possibly have accidents and/or tear anything up. You can increase your piggy's roaming area once they get a solid grasp on potty training and the routines of the home. Always increase the space they are allowed to roam slowly and gradually, don't give too much too quickly. We sincerely recommend a room with a hard or laminate flooring, carpet lends itself to too many messes or the opportunity to tear at it. Pigs can slip on the hard solid floors, so just watch them and make sure they aren't excessively slipping. If for any reason they are, limit their area and place a lot of blankets or newspaper down. Again, get on the floor and make sure that anything and everything that can be harmful or torn apart is off the floor and out of reach. If the pig can get it's mouth or snout on it, it will! If you brought your pig home in a kennel like we always suggest, leave the kennel with the door open in his new room so he/she can get use to it and learn to use it as a nice quiet spot, just like a dog would. Put up a baby gate in the door jam so that your piggy can see and hear everything that is going on in the house. If you have a larger pig that can push and root harder than a small piglet, you will need to actually screw the baby gate in to the door jam. If they learn that they can push it down because of the limited tension that is on those gates, they will never forget that and try to rip it down at every opportunity! Place a small piggy bed in the room. For small piglets we recommend a cat type bed and for a little larger pigs, a dog bed. Remember, they very well may end up tearing the bed apart, so keep a watchful eye out and be prepared to replace it with something else if this does happen (try blankets next). Set up a litter box in a corner of the room. Pigs tend to gravitate to corners. For a small pig, a high backed, low front ferret litter box works really well. For a larger pig you may have to improvise. We have seen Rubbermaid storage containers with the front cut out, also work well. Some people even use big oven pans or rabbit cage pans that go under the cage to catch droppings. Again, you will have to improvise based on your individual pig and his/her individual need. What may work well for one, wont always work for the next. Always have a water pan available, even inside. Expect them to dump it over or try and play with it, so put a mat down in case of a spill. If you place your pig on carpet flooring; we recommend a child's type place mat or a dish dryer mat that will soak up the water. If your piggy has an accident on the floor, pick up its feces and place a few of them back in his/her litter box. Putting some of it back in there will entice the pig to return to where it's smell was last. Expect mistakes and remember patience!
*Please see our page on Building for the Indoor Pig for more ideas.
* Please see our page on Potty Training & Setbacks for more detailed information.
Outdoors
Outdoor pigs will need a sturdy, weather proof shed or barn. Plenty of straw or thick shavings to keep them warm at night, especially in the winter months. We do not like blankets for outside pigs as they can get wet and hold the moisture, which in turn promotes bacteria growth and mold. Ideally outdoor pigs should be kept in small groups for extra body warmth. Outdoor pigs should ALWAYS be purchased in pairs! They love to snuggle together on cool nights. Remember that pigs need plenty of fresh drinking water at all times. Another thing most people do not know is: Pigs do not sweat! Actually the only place they 'sweat' is out of the top end of their nose! On occasion you can see little tiny droplets of water forming there. To help them keep cool during those hot summer days you will need either a kiddy pool (those cheap plastic ones they sell at PetsMart every spring do fine, but only last about one season) or a nice mud hole or referred to as a "wallow". Rolling around in the mud hole cools them off by covering them in cool mud and blocks the suns harmful UV rays; so it prevents sunburns. Plus, caked on mud keeps insects from getting to their skin and biting.
You will need to make sure that their area is fenced well. Hog panels or cattle panels seem to work best. The cattle panels are taller (about 4 feet) and harder for stray animals to jump over. Hog panels are about 3 feet tall. These panels are heavy sections of fence. Each section is 16 feet long and made of 1/4" or 3/8" round stiff metal. Most feed stores know what these are. Wood fencing (many planks, not just a standard horse fence) and chain link will do also. Chain link should be re-enforced with chicken wire along the bottom and sunk about six inches below ground. Make sure there is no place for your pigs snout or tusk to get stuck or caught. You will want a fence that will keep your pig in and others (stray dogs, coyotes or other critters) out. An outdoor pig will want to root around. This is a natural thing and your pig should be allowed to do this, they also obtain the mineral Iron this way. You may want to fence off a section of your yard for your pig to be a pig. They will root all the way to China in order to get at something they smell below the surface. Their snouts are very powerful. You might also need to fence off any flower beds that you want to keep off limits. If you have a beautiful lawn and you get a pig, well, you should know what you are getting into and take appropriate precautions. If you had a beautiful lawn before a pig, you probably wont after.
Supplies to Buy First
Indoor Pets...
*Corner litter box (any shallow box will do). Must be a lot larger when the pig becomes full sized!
*Newspaper or shavings (Pine ONLY) for litter substrate. Plain old dirt works too but they may root more in this, so be prepared! NO KITTY LITTER!
*Blanket specifically for your pig to sleep with
*Medium sized dog bed
*Some small dog toys or items for the pig to push around
*If you have a very small piglet, make sure to have a heating pad with a very low setting
*If you have a very small piglet, Gerber Rice Cereal (can be found at any grocery store or Target/Walmart)
*If you have a very small piglet, all species milk replacer powder (can be found at most farm supply stores)
*Very small piglets like a midsized stuffed animal to snuggle with
Both Indoor/Outdoor...
*Medium to large traveling dog crate (PetMate or SkyKennel is one of the best and most dependable brands).
*Mazuri Mini Pig Feed (Youth up to 4 months and Active Adult from 5 months- beyond)
*Ivomec Cattle/Swine dewormer, given bi-annually to ward off internal parasites and skin mites
*Rubbing Alcohol
*Cotton Swabs
*Rubber Brush
*2 Shallow stainless steel feed pans
*Thermometer specifically for your pet pig. We recommend a digital one.
*Specifically designed Pig Harness
*Child's Sunscreen for Summer Months
Please see our page dedicated to outdoor pig structures and enclosure planning.
Outdoor Pets...
* 1 Large shallow water pan (I usually get the rubber ones at feed stores in the horse section)
*Large dog house
*Beaver Bag thick/large shavings
*Fly Spary w/ Citronella to wipe on your pig if you live in a high traffic area for biting insects.
*Diatomaceous Earth (commonly referred to as DE and used to ward off skin problems, excessive scratching and mites). Can be purchased at any Tractor Supply or any farm store, we recommend the food grade option.
Please see our Pet Pig Products Page where we reference and give more detail and purchasing opportunities on all the items we have listed in this website.
Feeding
Pigs love to eat and the proper type and amount of food he/she gets is very important. There are several companies that make mini pig chow. The most popular feeds are Heartland, Peak Performance, Mazuri by Purina, Nutrina and Manna Pro. These feeds are designed for pot belly pigs and should always be the mainstay of their diet. Pig Chow is a complete food made to give them what they need, especially protein that a pig has to have and can't make themselves. We have to try and remember that these pigs are Omnivore, not Herbivore. They cannot make their own protein. That is why it has to be fed to them and they will get that in their pig chow. In the wild the protein would come from dead animals, worms, bugs, etc. The pig chow we give them has the protein added so it makes life easier. As long as the pig gets its normal feeding of the pig chow things should be fine, but a pig fed nothing but fruits and veggies will have problems.
Part of good pot belly pig care is proper diet. Feed your pig at least twice a day. A general guide is piglets should be fed on a free-choice basis (as many times as they want) or about 2 cups of pig chow from 6-8 weeks old (or as soon as pigs will nibble on it). Around 4 months, you will notice the need to start decreasing or upping your pigs feed intake and this will depend on your pigs metabolism and activity levels. Each pig is different. Do not feed your pig dog or cat food!
Food amounts should be cut down if your pig is able to graze a great deal. For instance, in the summer months our pigs are outside grazing all day so I can cut back on the amount of food I feed them. Usually I will cut it in half. In the winter we do increase the amount fed to the outside pigs as they need that protein to burn off. In the winter we usually double what would be their normal amount. Please do not feed your pet pig high calorie "people food/junk food" or you will end up with a fat and unhealthy pig. They are just like humans: Eat junk food and you get fat! Plus, it is not good for their (or your) overall long term health. When a pig becomes overweight, their legs will eventually give them problems, manifesting in arthritis, poor joint health and locomotive problems. This is quite common in overweight pigs, along with other health conditions being overweight causes, like too much stress on the internal organs.
IMPORTANT: There are also many unscrupulous people and breeders out there that tell you if you want your pig to stay small in stature (physical size, not just weight), just feed it less. Not only is this completely ludicrous and false, it can be considered animal abuse in many locations. Pet pigs, especially those just starting out in life, need all the nutrients they can get to avoid serious health problems later. You would not underfeed your child just to keep them small of stature, would you? And besides, it would cause severe health problems if not complete organ failure. Do yourself a favor: If anyone ever tells you that the way to keep a pig small in stature is to feed it just a little, tell them they are crazy and then report them to local animal control.
Please see our Nutrition Page for more in depth details...
Behavior
Your pig should be brought home in a pet carrier or sky kennel. This is safest for him and you. Please don't carry the pig in your lap. Should he get scared or you are in an accident, it could prove to be deadly for both of you. Put some newspaper or towels on the bottom of the carrier so it isn't so slippery and expect there to be a few poops in the the carrier by the time you reach home. Pigs are known for pooping once inside a moving vehicle. A pig should feel safe in their carrier and this will come with time. Once you are home put the carrier in the piggy pasture/stall/area/room that you have made. There you can open it up and let your pig out to explore his new home. Remember your pig is in a state of shock. He didn't ask to be uprooted from the only home he has ever known and moved to a new place. Since pigs don't have decent eyesight he will check out his new surroundings by rooting around. A few soft toys along with proper substrate is recommended.
Pigs are highly intelligent and quite inquisitive at a young age. If they can get into it, they will! It is your responsibility to provide them with a safe living environment. Remember, anything within reach is fair game, even if that is outdoors!
Behavior and socialization is something that cannot be rushed. Teaching trust takes time. Don't invade your pigs space. Let him come to you and explore you. I do this by going into the pen with the pig and just sitting on the ground. When they are ready, they come to me to check me out. Remember to move slowly with your pig. Quick movement can scare them (again they have poor eyesight so quick movements will always frighten them). The next time I take a little food with me. Before you know it, they are crawling all over and around you looking for food. Pigs hate being picked up as this just isn't natural for them like it is with cat or dog. Please, avoid picking up your pig unless it is absolutely necessary. If you are going to be picking your pig up let him know with "UP" or a word to your liking. This is all part of the process of teaching your pig to trust you. Before you start any training, be sure you and your pig have been 'socialized' and he is now beginning to trust you. This may take a few weeks or even a months, but trying to train him before he is comfortable, relaxed and trusts you is a waste of time and will set you back quite a bit.
Even if your pig was socialized with the breeder, that doesn't mean it will automatically transfer over to you without being scared, you are new, smell different and they are in a new and foreign environment. Unless your pet pig came directly from a high output petting zoo (which has it's own set of drawbacks), regardless of prior socialization, your pig may still require time and patience to come around to its new family. If your pig does end up coming from a petting zoo, be very careful and make SURE that you have all proper veterinary documentation on the animal for routine health checks, proper vaccines and a current health certificate (which is mandated by USDA for petting zoos). Pigs that come from constant traveling zoos are at a very high risk for health complications from being exposed repeatedly to different and unknown environments, people that may not be washing their hands and other animals coming and going frequently. Most of the time, these piglets in petting zoos are also yanked from their mother and litter mates very early on, like only days old. Petting zoo owners and some breeders claim this makes them 10 times more sociable with humans and easy to interact with, because they depend on the human very early on in life for food, love and care. although there is some miniscule truth to this, it is flat out unhealthy and a poor practice of petting zoos and breeders. Yanking the piglet from its mother does not allow the animal the nutrients it needs for proper growth and I am not just referring to the initial colostrum. Any animal to thrive, needs to stay with its mother for at least 6-8 weeks at minimum. Removing the piglet from it's liter also takes away the valuable lessons in behavior it will learn from it's mother and it siblings. Although these young pigs seem like a great catch, we at Pet Pig Education never recommend prior petting zoo piglets or piglets from breeders that bottle feed.
"Why is my pig being aggressive and charging at friends and/or family members but not me"? This is a natural behavior for the pig. Pigs have a hierarchy system and only one pig or member of the pig herd (family) can be the top hog. This starts when they are very young. They start by fighting litter mates for a particular teat. And this will continue for the rest of their lives. It is just natural for them to challenge other members of the herd to see who will be top hog. And this is a major reason why you may see your loving potbelly test members of the family (his herd), He wants to see if he can move up the ladder to top hog status. This is why children are often challenged as the pig knows they are not the top hog and they might be able to move up in the herd by challenging them. The key to dealing with aggression is training, discipline, and consistency. Never let your 10 pound pig get away with anything you don't want your 100+ pound pig doing. If there is ever an opening or a chance to challenge, they will take it. They do not understand gray areas, you must teach and train in black and white, yes and no, not well or maybe. A well trained pig is a happy pig. If you have children that might be challenged by your pig, have them teach the pig a trick. With supervision from you in the background of course. Step in and anticipate what your pig may do and be ready to say "NO!" repeatedly. Say "NO" in a firm, strong voice, but not screaming. Push him by the shoulders to the side and divert him from his intent. This is how two pigs normally fight or show dominance. They push each other around from the side at the shoulders. Or try clapping your hands. You are communicating that this not allowed behavior. Break the behavior when you see it forming in their minds. Yes there are times when you can see them thinking/getting ready to charge. Also keep in mind that some pigs are more territorial or assertive than others. Try changing the tone in your voice. Sometimes a simple change in the tone of your voice can work.
Most times when the pig is a biter it is not their fault, but ours. This happens because we are constantly giving or offering food without making them work for it. Other than their meals, they should only be given a treat when it is earned, not because you happened to go into the kitchen! If you have a pig that is biting or nipping stop ALL food by hand. Treats MUST be earned and it must be placed on the ground, in their bowl or an enrichment toy. They will not be happy campers at first, but this does work and must be kept up. If you let up and they see an opportunity, believe us they will take advantage of it and you will have to start all over again. For those of you with new pigs offer treats from a flat hand with the treat sticking up between two fingers. This teaches them to use their lips and not their teeth.
Also, never, NEVER hit your pig out of anger. They will not understand and in many cases makes them even more stubborn (pigheaded)!
*Please our page on Behavior for more details.
Rooting
Pigs love to root (dig with their snouts) and it is a natural behavior and provides them with iron. Please do not discourage your pet pig from rooting. This is what his snout is for. Give him a place in the yard that will be all his and that he can root up till his hearts content. A rooting pig is a pig in heaven. If your pig roots up something in the yard that he should not have, it is not his fault. It is yours for poor planning. He will root up any available dirt searching for something. A favorite time of the year for mine to root is spring when the ground is still moist or after a rain. I have noticed over the years that where ever they decide to root they do come up with something, whether it be old roots from the trees and bushes, bark that is below ground level, flora growing under the ground surface, etc. Remember, pigs can smell 100 times better than we can. If it is underground, they will find it. If your pot belly pig is a house pig be sure he has plenty of old blankets, towels or rugs to root around with. Another good idea is a rooting box where he can get a treat by pushing some river rocks around. We still recommend that an indoor pig ALWAYS get outside time to root in the real ground. If you have an outside pig he will also enjoy rooting around in the straw in his pen.
Scratching
Pigs, scratching and/or belly rubs seem to go hand in hand. With their naturally dry skin they just love to scratch. They also tend to scratch heavily when losing their coat of hair (also called "blowing their coat"), which usually happens once a year. You can help keep this scratching down to a minimum by making sure your pig is wormed twice a year and has a proper diet. When blowing their coat you can help them out by gently pulling out loose hair. Sometimes it comes out in big handfuls! If your pig is scratching excessively you might have mange mites. If the skin itself looks kind of pink or irritated and the pig goes wild scratching, and I don't mean just once in a while rubbing against stuff but its pretty much continuous and they even scratch with their hind legs, you may have a mite issue. This is where proper worming and the DE come in to play. The DE can even be sprinkled in their pen or enclosure. It is non toxic and even humans can eat it.
All pigs, especially pot belly pigs, seem to love a good belly rub and will fall over on their side when you get the right spot. They will lay on their side for what will seem like hours while your give them a belly rub. After all, you love a good belly rub, don't you? Some anti-itch spray or creams can temporarily help your pig. For those of you considering an inside pig beware that they like to rub on the edges of furniture and walls. The spots they pick out will gradually get dirty, stained and worn. I have spots on two different walls where they love to rub their butts. Make sure your furniture cannot be knocked over if they are scratching on it. They are MUCH stronger than most people think.
Pigs & Other Pets
This is a question that is widely asked in the pet pig community. It will also have a wide variety of answers or responses. The one animal that we always suggest you steer clear of or watch aggressively with your pet pig, are dogs. Pig are by nature a prey animal, dogs by nature are predators. Dogs will fight and pigs will flight. The pig will always lose. Some small dogs do well with pigs, although even this isn't always true. It really depends on your pig and the dog in question. Even if it "seems" your dog and pig will have a fantastic relationship and they are one of the "blessed few"... never leave them unattended and together. All it takes is once and you could end up with a pig whose ears have been ripped off or even a dead pig entirely. We have even seen a small Pomeranian try and jump a baby gate to attack a piglet. Its reality and it happens. There are a few lucky individuals out there but rest assured, it has taken them years to get the two species to coexist. Unfortunately, it is just a natural animal predator/prey relationship and although it stinks at times, we MUST respect it as it is NEVER guaranteed.
Pigs many do well with certain livestock. For the most part, we don't recommend having them in with horses, even mini horses can and will stomp at them if the pig tries to push their weight around. There are exceptions to the rule but be VERY careful! We also don't recommend having them around bulls or cows with calves at their side, both can be very aggressive and kill your pig. Goats tend to do well with pigs, especially pygmies or dwarf variations. However, there are some, especially those that are not altered or disbudded, that will head butt and go after your pig. Most goats do well, some do not; just keep a good eye on the relationship! Sheep tend to do well with altered pigs too, never put them in with a ram though. Pigs do tend to do well with chickens, peafowl and guineas. Like with any relationship, each animal is an individual and you will need to keep a watchful eye on the hierarchy status and how they react to each others presence.
There are other domestic household animals that tend to do really well with pigs. Cats and pigs tend to have this mutual respect for each other. If the pig oversteps it's boundary with the cat, the cat will take a good swat at it and the pig has forever learned it's lesson. We have seen some very cute cat/pig companionship. Birds tend to do well with pigs too. This is an odd relationship but it tends to work. Just watch the larger parrots and hook bills because they can and will bite if they feel threatened. A large parrot can do some damage with one simple bite if it gets upset. We have seen a lot of mid sized and smaller bird/pig companions though. I have even seen ferrets that enjoy pigs, weirder things have happened! As mentioned above, just make sure to watch the initial workings of the relationship very closely and be prepared to step in immediately if needed. If you are ever afraid that you may get hurt separating a fight or scuffle, grab a piece of cardboard or wood and insert it in to the middle of the fight, never your arm or body!
*Please see the page Introudicing Two Pigs.
Vet Care
The typical vaccines are made for farm pigs and don't seem to have much value to the potbellies since the vaccines are made for one particular strain of a disease that potbellies rarely, if ever, get. If you do have it done, don't let them talk you into it every year because we are seeing problems with pigs getting them too often and their immune system are naturally so efficient, that it ends up doing more harm than good. We have also heard of cases where the vet over vaccinates the pig. Meaning too much of the vaccination was given for the size/weight of the pig. If you must vaccinate, the recommended vaccinations may vary depending on where you live. Vaccinations should include Erysipelas, Bordatella, and Pasturella on a yearly basis after the initial double dose at 6 -10 weeks and 12 -14 weeks. Be careful: Reactions to lepto vaccinations are common. As of this writing, rabies vaccine is not approved in pigs. Pigs are resistant to rabies and are very unlikely to contract the disease. Using cat or dog vaccines are unacceptable. Lymes vaccine is not approved in pigs. Remember, vaccinations are expensive and if they are doubtful in value they should be avoided, especially since occasional reactions do occur. Also know that pseudo rabies in pigs is NOT the same thing as rabies in domestic pets.
*Please see our vaccine blog for further details.
Your pig should be wormed twice a year. This can be done with a shot, but given orally is easiest and best. If giving orally, it is not necessary to have a vet do the procedure. The antiparasitic of choice is Ivomec 1% solution. You can get the Ivomec at some feed stores or ask your vet to give you enough for two doses. Tell your vet you want to give it by mouth instead of in shots and he needs to give you a little more than what would be in the shot. If you cannot get it from your vet or find it at your local feed store then you will need to shop on-line. You are looking for Ivomec for cattle and swine, the 1% solution. At the feed store, it will always be in a glass case and there is a bull on the front, the box is black. This is because Ivomec is mainly marketed as a bovine (cattle) dewormer. Do not fear, it is also used heavily for swine.
*See our Pet Pig Product Page for where to buy this product.
Spay & Neuter
Unneutered male pigs become sexually active at about two months old and you do not want an unneutered male pig as a household pet! Believe us. They will want to hump everything in site, they have a bad musk type odor and can be quite aggressive towards both the female pigs and humans. Even on the farm, they will grow large tusks at or about 2 years of age and they will start protruding from the jowls around 3 years old. They are VERY sharp and can cause immense damage to humans, other pets and even livestock. Although neutered males will also have tusks, they wont continue to grow as large as those that are unneutered. Unneutered males will also try and escape their enclosures at any and all opportunities, even if you have hog panels up on the farm. Their entire day may be dedicated to trying to escape and then wandering away to find a mate. Males can be neutered as early as one month old. But it is best to wait until they have a little weight on them. 8 to 12 weeks is the usual time or when the piglet weighs in at about 10 to 12 pounds. You can also neuter a pig at only a couple days old (between 2-10 days). This is the old "hog farmer way" and is totally doable, however, it is MANDATORY that you find an individual versed in this technique; this is not something you just go out and do! It can also lead to death if the male pig prolapses out of their inguinal ring. Make sure that individual is also versed in suturing in case any need to be put in to place if such an event occurs. We normally never recommend this method and it should always be reserved for those with a lot of experience with this technique!
Unspayed females have a monthly menstrual cycle and get terrible PMS! Their first heat cycle is usually at about 12 weeks of age and become sexually active at about five months old. They will have a heat cycle every month for the rest of their lives. And the heat cycles last about 3-5 days. Spaying a female is a much more involved surgery and is not recommended on females over eight months old; granted, it can still be done. Over eight months old the surgery gets risky due to the amount of fat that the vet will need to cut through. Unaltered females may take to peeing in front of her favorite people. They will also pee anywhere even if they are potty trained, when in heat, they will pee where ever they feel like it. This is the main reason people get rid of the little girls. But, this is just human ignorance showing. So those of you with older females that can not be spayed please make sure that you have good fencing up.
*Please see our Spay & Neuter Page for more details...
Advantages to Spay or Neuter
* Spayed females have a lower chance of developing mammary tumors, and the possibility of uterine infections also called Pyometria or ovarian cancer as they age.
* Females will no longer go into heat, eliminating the probability of getting blood stains on the floor, bed, sofa, etc. when your female has her heat cycle.
* Neutered males have a lower chance of developing prostate infections. They won't develop testicular cancers. They will no longer have that musk smell.
* Neutered males tend to become less aggressive and experience a decrease in the incidence of fighting.
* Both sexes experience less of a need for territorial marking behavior, a decrease in the urge to roam, and become more docile and easier to train. The personality of both males and females usually improves because they don't have to spend so much time and energy seeking a mate.
* Fewer pigs in animal shelters, rescue centers and sanctuaries. This is one of the reasons pigs loose their home.
Written by Jodi Register (2015)
Zoning
Before you even consider a pet pig it is a MUST to make sure that where you live is properly zoned for pigs. Pigs are considered exotic or livestock in many counties and you need to make sure that they are legal to keep within your city or county's limits. If you obtain the pig before doing this research, there is a high probability that the city will take your pig away from you. This is devastating and another reason pigs end up in rescues or shelters so frequently. Every city within a given state has different zoning regulations, these regulations can even change year by year. So just because a pet pig was allowed a few years back, it does not necessarily mean that you will be allowed one now. So make sure to call your city before deciding on a pet pig! If someone in the city office tells you that you ARE zoned correctly or that pet pigs ARE allowed, write down their name, date and the information you were told. If some one makes a complaint against your pet and you come to find out you were given misguided information, having all these details may just save you and your pet pig!
No one that rents should own pigs without a written consent from the owner or management company. This is to cover both parties in the event of the pet destroying something in the home or apartment. If your landlord agrees to a pet pig, get it written in an official letter or amendment to your lease. This is to protect YOU and your pet if all the sudden the landlord decides he wants to change his mind. Be very clear on the details of what they will allow and an appropriate pet deposit. You want the deposit to actually be appropriate for a pig, in the instance your pig does accidentally cause a lot of damage to the home/rental property (this CAN happen even more so than with destructive dogs). Pigs really don't make good apartment pets, contrary to what a lot of breeders will try and tell you. Pigs are naturally destructive because of their natural need to root and can tear apart your home in a few hours. We have known first hand, pigs that have ripped up carpet, open fridges and raided them, open/destroyed cupboards, ripped up clothes, beds, pillows, couches and have even chewed through the walls and baseboards. Although not all pigs
do this, you have to expect and plan for a pig that will need patient guidance and training to become a good house pet.
Life Span
On average, the life span of a pot belly pig use to be considered 12 - 15 years. The truth is, that nobody knows for certain because potbellied pigs have only been in this country since 1985. We hear from more and more people with pigs living to be 18-20. As long as the pig is well cared for, disease free and not obese or underfed at ay point, your pig should live from 15-18 years, on average.
Housing Requirements
Indoors
Pot belly pigs are curious and intelligent animals. If your pet pig is going to be a house piggy then you will need to 'pig proof' your house just as you would for a toddler. They will chew on anything and can open just about everything so check those electric cords, ‘child proof’ those cabinets and your refrigerator, and make sure you check all your furnishings. Pot belly pigs like to rub and/or scratch against anything (like walls and furniture) so be sure anything that can be knocked over is secure. They are much stronger than one would think! An indoor pig pet left alone all day can get very bored, particularly younger ones less than 5-6 years old. As pigs age they do slow down, just like humans. Remember they are curious and also love to root (this is a natural behavior). In order to amuse himself, he/she may end up rooting the floor or carpet apart, chewing on the walls and opening kitchen cupboards. Many have even figured out how to open the refrigerator! Typically Pet Pig Education does not suggest that pigs be primarily indoor pets, we have had a select few or special needs pigs, end up indoors and are thriving. This takes a special person, who is home a lot and the patience of a saint! We recommend that pigs be purchased in pairs and live outdoors in appropriate enclosures. If you must keep your pet pig indoors, we have a few starting suggestions to help out.
You will need to locate a small room (we usually suggest a not frequently used guest bathroom, the laundry room or mud type room), that will allow limited space initially for your piggy to roam and possibly have accidents and/or tear anything up. You can increase your piggy's roaming area once they get a solid grasp on potty training and the routines of the home. Always increase the space they are allowed to roam slowly and gradually, don't give too much too quickly. We sincerely recommend a room with a hard or laminate flooring, carpet lends itself to too many messes or the opportunity to tear at it. Pigs can slip on the hard solid floors, so just watch them and make sure they aren't excessively slipping. If for any reason they are, limit their area and place a lot of blankets or newspaper down. Again, get on the floor and make sure that anything and everything that can be harmful or torn apart is off the floor and out of reach. If the pig can get it's mouth or snout on it, it will! If you brought your pig home in a kennel like we always suggest, leave the kennel with the door open in his new room so he/she can get use to it and learn to use it as a nice quiet spot, just like a dog would. Put up a baby gate in the door jam so that your piggy can see and hear everything that is going on in the house. If you have a larger pig that can push and root harder than a small piglet, you will need to actually screw the baby gate in to the door jam. If they learn that they can push it down because of the limited tension that is on those gates, they will never forget that and try to rip it down at every opportunity! Place a small piggy bed in the room. For small piglets we recommend a cat type bed and for a little larger pigs, a dog bed. Remember, they very well may end up tearing the bed apart, so keep a watchful eye out and be prepared to replace it with something else if this does happen (try blankets next). Set up a litter box in a corner of the room. Pigs tend to gravitate to corners. For a small pig, a high backed, low front ferret litter box works really well. For a larger pig you may have to improvise. We have seen Rubbermaid storage containers with the front cut out, also work well. Some people even use big oven pans or rabbit cage pans that go under the cage to catch droppings. Again, you will have to improvise based on your individual pig and his/her individual need. What may work well for one, wont always work for the next. Always have a water pan available, even inside. Expect them to dump it over or try and play with it, so put a mat down in case of a spill. If you place your pig on carpet flooring; we recommend a child's type place mat or a dish dryer mat that will soak up the water. If your piggy has an accident on the floor, pick up its feces and place a few of them back in his/her litter box. Putting some of it back in there will entice the pig to return to where it's smell was last. Expect mistakes and remember patience!
*Please see our page on Building for the Indoor Pig for more ideas.
* Please see our page on Potty Training & Setbacks for more detailed information.
Outdoors
Outdoor pigs will need a sturdy, weather proof shed or barn. Plenty of straw or thick shavings to keep them warm at night, especially in the winter months. We do not like blankets for outside pigs as they can get wet and hold the moisture, which in turn promotes bacteria growth and mold. Ideally outdoor pigs should be kept in small groups for extra body warmth. Outdoor pigs should ALWAYS be purchased in pairs! They love to snuggle together on cool nights. Remember that pigs need plenty of fresh drinking water at all times. Another thing most people do not know is: Pigs do not sweat! Actually the only place they 'sweat' is out of the top end of their nose! On occasion you can see little tiny droplets of water forming there. To help them keep cool during those hot summer days you will need either a kiddy pool (those cheap plastic ones they sell at PetsMart every spring do fine, but only last about one season) or a nice mud hole or referred to as a "wallow". Rolling around in the mud hole cools them off by covering them in cool mud and blocks the suns harmful UV rays; so it prevents sunburns. Plus, caked on mud keeps insects from getting to their skin and biting.
You will need to make sure that their area is fenced well. Hog panels or cattle panels seem to work best. The cattle panels are taller (about 4 feet) and harder for stray animals to jump over. Hog panels are about 3 feet tall. These panels are heavy sections of fence. Each section is 16 feet long and made of 1/4" or 3/8" round stiff metal. Most feed stores know what these are. Wood fencing (many planks, not just a standard horse fence) and chain link will do also. Chain link should be re-enforced with chicken wire along the bottom and sunk about six inches below ground. Make sure there is no place for your pigs snout or tusk to get stuck or caught. You will want a fence that will keep your pig in and others (stray dogs, coyotes or other critters) out. An outdoor pig will want to root around. This is a natural thing and your pig should be allowed to do this, they also obtain the mineral Iron this way. You may want to fence off a section of your yard for your pig to be a pig. They will root all the way to China in order to get at something they smell below the surface. Their snouts are very powerful. You might also need to fence off any flower beds that you want to keep off limits. If you have a beautiful lawn and you get a pig, well, you should know what you are getting into and take appropriate precautions. If you had a beautiful lawn before a pig, you probably wont after.
Supplies to Buy First
Indoor Pets...
*Corner litter box (any shallow box will do). Must be a lot larger when the pig becomes full sized!
*Newspaper or shavings (Pine ONLY) for litter substrate. Plain old dirt works too but they may root more in this, so be prepared! NO KITTY LITTER!
*Blanket specifically for your pig to sleep with
*Medium sized dog bed
*Some small dog toys or items for the pig to push around
*If you have a very small piglet, make sure to have a heating pad with a very low setting
*If you have a very small piglet, Gerber Rice Cereal (can be found at any grocery store or Target/Walmart)
*If you have a very small piglet, all species milk replacer powder (can be found at most farm supply stores)
*Very small piglets like a midsized stuffed animal to snuggle with
Both Indoor/Outdoor...
*Medium to large traveling dog crate (PetMate or SkyKennel is one of the best and most dependable brands).
*Mazuri Mini Pig Feed (Youth up to 4 months and Active Adult from 5 months- beyond)
*Ivomec Cattle/Swine dewormer, given bi-annually to ward off internal parasites and skin mites
*Rubbing Alcohol
*Cotton Swabs
*Rubber Brush
*2 Shallow stainless steel feed pans
*Thermometer specifically for your pet pig. We recommend a digital one.
*Specifically designed Pig Harness
*Child's Sunscreen for Summer Months
Please see our page dedicated to outdoor pig structures and enclosure planning.
Outdoor Pets...
* 1 Large shallow water pan (I usually get the rubber ones at feed stores in the horse section)
*Large dog house
*Beaver Bag thick/large shavings
*Fly Spary w/ Citronella to wipe on your pig if you live in a high traffic area for biting insects.
*Diatomaceous Earth (commonly referred to as DE and used to ward off skin problems, excessive scratching and mites). Can be purchased at any Tractor Supply or any farm store, we recommend the food grade option.
Please see our Pet Pig Products Page where we reference and give more detail and purchasing opportunities on all the items we have listed in this website.
Feeding
Pigs love to eat and the proper type and amount of food he/she gets is very important. There are several companies that make mini pig chow. The most popular feeds are Heartland, Peak Performance, Mazuri by Purina, Nutrina and Manna Pro. These feeds are designed for pot belly pigs and should always be the mainstay of their diet. Pig Chow is a complete food made to give them what they need, especially protein that a pig has to have and can't make themselves. We have to try and remember that these pigs are Omnivore, not Herbivore. They cannot make their own protein. That is why it has to be fed to them and they will get that in their pig chow. In the wild the protein would come from dead animals, worms, bugs, etc. The pig chow we give them has the protein added so it makes life easier. As long as the pig gets its normal feeding of the pig chow things should be fine, but a pig fed nothing but fruits and veggies will have problems.
Part of good pot belly pig care is proper diet. Feed your pig at least twice a day. A general guide is piglets should be fed on a free-choice basis (as many times as they want) or about 2 cups of pig chow from 6-8 weeks old (or as soon as pigs will nibble on it). Around 4 months, you will notice the need to start decreasing or upping your pigs feed intake and this will depend on your pigs metabolism and activity levels. Each pig is different. Do not feed your pig dog or cat food!
Food amounts should be cut down if your pig is able to graze a great deal. For instance, in the summer months our pigs are outside grazing all day so I can cut back on the amount of food I feed them. Usually I will cut it in half. In the winter we do increase the amount fed to the outside pigs as they need that protein to burn off. In the winter we usually double what would be their normal amount. Please do not feed your pet pig high calorie "people food/junk food" or you will end up with a fat and unhealthy pig. They are just like humans: Eat junk food and you get fat! Plus, it is not good for their (or your) overall long term health. When a pig becomes overweight, their legs will eventually give them problems, manifesting in arthritis, poor joint health and locomotive problems. This is quite common in overweight pigs, along with other health conditions being overweight causes, like too much stress on the internal organs.
IMPORTANT: There are also many unscrupulous people and breeders out there that tell you if you want your pig to stay small in stature (physical size, not just weight), just feed it less. Not only is this completely ludicrous and false, it can be considered animal abuse in many locations. Pet pigs, especially those just starting out in life, need all the nutrients they can get to avoid serious health problems later. You would not underfeed your child just to keep them small of stature, would you? And besides, it would cause severe health problems if not complete organ failure. Do yourself a favor: If anyone ever tells you that the way to keep a pig small in stature is to feed it just a little, tell them they are crazy and then report them to local animal control.
Please see our Nutrition Page for more in depth details...
Behavior
Your pig should be brought home in a pet carrier or sky kennel. This is safest for him and you. Please don't carry the pig in your lap. Should he get scared or you are in an accident, it could prove to be deadly for both of you. Put some newspaper or towels on the bottom of the carrier so it isn't so slippery and expect there to be a few poops in the the carrier by the time you reach home. Pigs are known for pooping once inside a moving vehicle. A pig should feel safe in their carrier and this will come with time. Once you are home put the carrier in the piggy pasture/stall/area/room that you have made. There you can open it up and let your pig out to explore his new home. Remember your pig is in a state of shock. He didn't ask to be uprooted from the only home he has ever known and moved to a new place. Since pigs don't have decent eyesight he will check out his new surroundings by rooting around. A few soft toys along with proper substrate is recommended.
Pigs are highly intelligent and quite inquisitive at a young age. If they can get into it, they will! It is your responsibility to provide them with a safe living environment. Remember, anything within reach is fair game, even if that is outdoors!
Behavior and socialization is something that cannot be rushed. Teaching trust takes time. Don't invade your pigs space. Let him come to you and explore you. I do this by going into the pen with the pig and just sitting on the ground. When they are ready, they come to me to check me out. Remember to move slowly with your pig. Quick movement can scare them (again they have poor eyesight so quick movements will always frighten them). The next time I take a little food with me. Before you know it, they are crawling all over and around you looking for food. Pigs hate being picked up as this just isn't natural for them like it is with cat or dog. Please, avoid picking up your pig unless it is absolutely necessary. If you are going to be picking your pig up let him know with "UP" or a word to your liking. This is all part of the process of teaching your pig to trust you. Before you start any training, be sure you and your pig have been 'socialized' and he is now beginning to trust you. This may take a few weeks or even a months, but trying to train him before he is comfortable, relaxed and trusts you is a waste of time and will set you back quite a bit.
Even if your pig was socialized with the breeder, that doesn't mean it will automatically transfer over to you without being scared, you are new, smell different and they are in a new and foreign environment. Unless your pet pig came directly from a high output petting zoo (which has it's own set of drawbacks), regardless of prior socialization, your pig may still require time and patience to come around to its new family. If your pig does end up coming from a petting zoo, be very careful and make SURE that you have all proper veterinary documentation on the animal for routine health checks, proper vaccines and a current health certificate (which is mandated by USDA for petting zoos). Pigs that come from constant traveling zoos are at a very high risk for health complications from being exposed repeatedly to different and unknown environments, people that may not be washing their hands and other animals coming and going frequently. Most of the time, these piglets in petting zoos are also yanked from their mother and litter mates very early on, like only days old. Petting zoo owners and some breeders claim this makes them 10 times more sociable with humans and easy to interact with, because they depend on the human very early on in life for food, love and care. although there is some miniscule truth to this, it is flat out unhealthy and a poor practice of petting zoos and breeders. Yanking the piglet from its mother does not allow the animal the nutrients it needs for proper growth and I am not just referring to the initial colostrum. Any animal to thrive, needs to stay with its mother for at least 6-8 weeks at minimum. Removing the piglet from it's liter also takes away the valuable lessons in behavior it will learn from it's mother and it siblings. Although these young pigs seem like a great catch, we at Pet Pig Education never recommend prior petting zoo piglets or piglets from breeders that bottle feed.
"Why is my pig being aggressive and charging at friends and/or family members but not me"? This is a natural behavior for the pig. Pigs have a hierarchy system and only one pig or member of the pig herd (family) can be the top hog. This starts when they are very young. They start by fighting litter mates for a particular teat. And this will continue for the rest of their lives. It is just natural for them to challenge other members of the herd to see who will be top hog. And this is a major reason why you may see your loving potbelly test members of the family (his herd), He wants to see if he can move up the ladder to top hog status. This is why children are often challenged as the pig knows they are not the top hog and they might be able to move up in the herd by challenging them. The key to dealing with aggression is training, discipline, and consistency. Never let your 10 pound pig get away with anything you don't want your 100+ pound pig doing. If there is ever an opening or a chance to challenge, they will take it. They do not understand gray areas, you must teach and train in black and white, yes and no, not well or maybe. A well trained pig is a happy pig. If you have children that might be challenged by your pig, have them teach the pig a trick. With supervision from you in the background of course. Step in and anticipate what your pig may do and be ready to say "NO!" repeatedly. Say "NO" in a firm, strong voice, but not screaming. Push him by the shoulders to the side and divert him from his intent. This is how two pigs normally fight or show dominance. They push each other around from the side at the shoulders. Or try clapping your hands. You are communicating that this not allowed behavior. Break the behavior when you see it forming in their minds. Yes there are times when you can see them thinking/getting ready to charge. Also keep in mind that some pigs are more territorial or assertive than others. Try changing the tone in your voice. Sometimes a simple change in the tone of your voice can work.
Most times when the pig is a biter it is not their fault, but ours. This happens because we are constantly giving or offering food without making them work for it. Other than their meals, they should only be given a treat when it is earned, not because you happened to go into the kitchen! If you have a pig that is biting or nipping stop ALL food by hand. Treats MUST be earned and it must be placed on the ground, in their bowl or an enrichment toy. They will not be happy campers at first, but this does work and must be kept up. If you let up and they see an opportunity, believe us they will take advantage of it and you will have to start all over again. For those of you with new pigs offer treats from a flat hand with the treat sticking up between two fingers. This teaches them to use their lips and not their teeth.
Also, never, NEVER hit your pig out of anger. They will not understand and in many cases makes them even more stubborn (pigheaded)!
*Please our page on Behavior for more details.
Rooting
Pigs love to root (dig with their snouts) and it is a natural behavior and provides them with iron. Please do not discourage your pet pig from rooting. This is what his snout is for. Give him a place in the yard that will be all his and that he can root up till his hearts content. A rooting pig is a pig in heaven. If your pig roots up something in the yard that he should not have, it is not his fault. It is yours for poor planning. He will root up any available dirt searching for something. A favorite time of the year for mine to root is spring when the ground is still moist or after a rain. I have noticed over the years that where ever they decide to root they do come up with something, whether it be old roots from the trees and bushes, bark that is below ground level, flora growing under the ground surface, etc. Remember, pigs can smell 100 times better than we can. If it is underground, they will find it. If your pot belly pig is a house pig be sure he has plenty of old blankets, towels or rugs to root around with. Another good idea is a rooting box where he can get a treat by pushing some river rocks around. We still recommend that an indoor pig ALWAYS get outside time to root in the real ground. If you have an outside pig he will also enjoy rooting around in the straw in his pen.
Scratching
Pigs, scratching and/or belly rubs seem to go hand in hand. With their naturally dry skin they just love to scratch. They also tend to scratch heavily when losing their coat of hair (also called "blowing their coat"), which usually happens once a year. You can help keep this scratching down to a minimum by making sure your pig is wormed twice a year and has a proper diet. When blowing their coat you can help them out by gently pulling out loose hair. Sometimes it comes out in big handfuls! If your pig is scratching excessively you might have mange mites. If the skin itself looks kind of pink or irritated and the pig goes wild scratching, and I don't mean just once in a while rubbing against stuff but its pretty much continuous and they even scratch with their hind legs, you may have a mite issue. This is where proper worming and the DE come in to play. The DE can even be sprinkled in their pen or enclosure. It is non toxic and even humans can eat it.
All pigs, especially pot belly pigs, seem to love a good belly rub and will fall over on their side when you get the right spot. They will lay on their side for what will seem like hours while your give them a belly rub. After all, you love a good belly rub, don't you? Some anti-itch spray or creams can temporarily help your pig. For those of you considering an inside pig beware that they like to rub on the edges of furniture and walls. The spots they pick out will gradually get dirty, stained and worn. I have spots on two different walls where they love to rub their butts. Make sure your furniture cannot be knocked over if they are scratching on it. They are MUCH stronger than most people think.
Pigs & Other Pets
This is a question that is widely asked in the pet pig community. It will also have a wide variety of answers or responses. The one animal that we always suggest you steer clear of or watch aggressively with your pet pig, are dogs. Pig are by nature a prey animal, dogs by nature are predators. Dogs will fight and pigs will flight. The pig will always lose. Some small dogs do well with pigs, although even this isn't always true. It really depends on your pig and the dog in question. Even if it "seems" your dog and pig will have a fantastic relationship and they are one of the "blessed few"... never leave them unattended and together. All it takes is once and you could end up with a pig whose ears have been ripped off or even a dead pig entirely. We have even seen a small Pomeranian try and jump a baby gate to attack a piglet. Its reality and it happens. There are a few lucky individuals out there but rest assured, it has taken them years to get the two species to coexist. Unfortunately, it is just a natural animal predator/prey relationship and although it stinks at times, we MUST respect it as it is NEVER guaranteed.
Pigs many do well with certain livestock. For the most part, we don't recommend having them in with horses, even mini horses can and will stomp at them if the pig tries to push their weight around. There are exceptions to the rule but be VERY careful! We also don't recommend having them around bulls or cows with calves at their side, both can be very aggressive and kill your pig. Goats tend to do well with pigs, especially pygmies or dwarf variations. However, there are some, especially those that are not altered or disbudded, that will head butt and go after your pig. Most goats do well, some do not; just keep a good eye on the relationship! Sheep tend to do well with altered pigs too, never put them in with a ram though. Pigs do tend to do well with chickens, peafowl and guineas. Like with any relationship, each animal is an individual and you will need to keep a watchful eye on the hierarchy status and how they react to each others presence.
There are other domestic household animals that tend to do really well with pigs. Cats and pigs tend to have this mutual respect for each other. If the pig oversteps it's boundary with the cat, the cat will take a good swat at it and the pig has forever learned it's lesson. We have seen some very cute cat/pig companionship. Birds tend to do well with pigs too. This is an odd relationship but it tends to work. Just watch the larger parrots and hook bills because they can and will bite if they feel threatened. A large parrot can do some damage with one simple bite if it gets upset. We have seen a lot of mid sized and smaller bird/pig companions though. I have even seen ferrets that enjoy pigs, weirder things have happened! As mentioned above, just make sure to watch the initial workings of the relationship very closely and be prepared to step in immediately if needed. If you are ever afraid that you may get hurt separating a fight or scuffle, grab a piece of cardboard or wood and insert it in to the middle of the fight, never your arm or body!
*Please see the page Introudicing Two Pigs.
Vet Care
The typical vaccines are made for farm pigs and don't seem to have much value to the potbellies since the vaccines are made for one particular strain of a disease that potbellies rarely, if ever, get. If you do have it done, don't let them talk you into it every year because we are seeing problems with pigs getting them too often and their immune system are naturally so efficient, that it ends up doing more harm than good. We have also heard of cases where the vet over vaccinates the pig. Meaning too much of the vaccination was given for the size/weight of the pig. If you must vaccinate, the recommended vaccinations may vary depending on where you live. Vaccinations should include Erysipelas, Bordatella, and Pasturella on a yearly basis after the initial double dose at 6 -10 weeks and 12 -14 weeks. Be careful: Reactions to lepto vaccinations are common. As of this writing, rabies vaccine is not approved in pigs. Pigs are resistant to rabies and are very unlikely to contract the disease. Using cat or dog vaccines are unacceptable. Lymes vaccine is not approved in pigs. Remember, vaccinations are expensive and if they are doubtful in value they should be avoided, especially since occasional reactions do occur. Also know that pseudo rabies in pigs is NOT the same thing as rabies in domestic pets.
*Please see our vaccine blog for further details.
Your pig should be wormed twice a year. This can be done with a shot, but given orally is easiest and best. If giving orally, it is not necessary to have a vet do the procedure. The antiparasitic of choice is Ivomec 1% solution. You can get the Ivomec at some feed stores or ask your vet to give you enough for two doses. Tell your vet you want to give it by mouth instead of in shots and he needs to give you a little more than what would be in the shot. If you cannot get it from your vet or find it at your local feed store then you will need to shop on-line. You are looking for Ivomec for cattle and swine, the 1% solution. At the feed store, it will always be in a glass case and there is a bull on the front, the box is black. This is because Ivomec is mainly marketed as a bovine (cattle) dewormer. Do not fear, it is also used heavily for swine.
*See our Pet Pig Product Page for where to buy this product.
Spay & Neuter
Unneutered male pigs become sexually active at about two months old and you do not want an unneutered male pig as a household pet! Believe us. They will want to hump everything in site, they have a bad musk type odor and can be quite aggressive towards both the female pigs and humans. Even on the farm, they will grow large tusks at or about 2 years of age and they will start protruding from the jowls around 3 years old. They are VERY sharp and can cause immense damage to humans, other pets and even livestock. Although neutered males will also have tusks, they wont continue to grow as large as those that are unneutered. Unneutered males will also try and escape their enclosures at any and all opportunities, even if you have hog panels up on the farm. Their entire day may be dedicated to trying to escape and then wandering away to find a mate. Males can be neutered as early as one month old. But it is best to wait until they have a little weight on them. 8 to 12 weeks is the usual time or when the piglet weighs in at about 10 to 12 pounds. You can also neuter a pig at only a couple days old (between 2-10 days). This is the old "hog farmer way" and is totally doable, however, it is MANDATORY that you find an individual versed in this technique; this is not something you just go out and do! It can also lead to death if the male pig prolapses out of their inguinal ring. Make sure that individual is also versed in suturing in case any need to be put in to place if such an event occurs. We normally never recommend this method and it should always be reserved for those with a lot of experience with this technique!
Unspayed females have a monthly menstrual cycle and get terrible PMS! Their first heat cycle is usually at about 12 weeks of age and become sexually active at about five months old. They will have a heat cycle every month for the rest of their lives. And the heat cycles last about 3-5 days. Spaying a female is a much more involved surgery and is not recommended on females over eight months old; granted, it can still be done. Over eight months old the surgery gets risky due to the amount of fat that the vet will need to cut through. Unaltered females may take to peeing in front of her favorite people. They will also pee anywhere even if they are potty trained, when in heat, they will pee where ever they feel like it. This is the main reason people get rid of the little girls. But, this is just human ignorance showing. So those of you with older females that can not be spayed please make sure that you have good fencing up.
*Please see our Spay & Neuter Page for more details...
Advantages to Spay or Neuter
* Spayed females have a lower chance of developing mammary tumors, and the possibility of uterine infections also called Pyometria or ovarian cancer as they age.
* Females will no longer go into heat, eliminating the probability of getting blood stains on the floor, bed, sofa, etc. when your female has her heat cycle.
* Neutered males have a lower chance of developing prostate infections. They won't develop testicular cancers. They will no longer have that musk smell.
* Neutered males tend to become less aggressive and experience a decrease in the incidence of fighting.
* Both sexes experience less of a need for territorial marking behavior, a decrease in the urge to roam, and become more docile and easier to train. The personality of both males and females usually improves because they don't have to spend so much time and energy seeking a mate.
* Fewer pigs in animal shelters, rescue centers and sanctuaries. This is one of the reasons pigs loose their home.
Written by Jodi Register (2015)
