Frequently Asked Questions...
These are questions that we see over and over again being asked in the pet pig community. However, A lot of these questions are addressed in greater detail within the pages of this website. You may come across highlighted links within our response, these will take you directly to the page where the detailed information on this topic is located. We also have a Pet Products page that is valuable to visit as it elaborates on the product we mentioned and where it is available for purchase. Also, continue to visit our updated blog as the most important pet pig topics will end up there in a very detailed and more elaborated on article. If you have a specific question you just can't find the answer to, send us an email and we can address it here.
1) I rescued/bought a piglet that was too young to leave its mother (or sold a "bottle baby") and it was not weaned properly, what do I do for feeding?
First, never buy in to a breeder that tells you a "bottle baby" is better because it will grow more attached to you. That is unethical and cruel to the piglet. Plus, it will not make your pet more sociable and lovable, it will most likely cause distress, illness and possibly death to the piglet. The youngest age we have seen a piglet successfully weaned and eating hard food, was around 5-6 weeks of age. You never want to purchase a piglet under 8 weeks as they need time to successfully be weaned by the mother at their own pace and as much time as possible with it's siblings to learn proper behavior. Never buy in to actually bottle feeding a baby pig either, that is the last thing you want to do! Unlike other species that do well on a bottle to replace it's mother, pigs do not, they can too easily aspirate on milk from a nipple/bottle; we always pan feed. There are always exceptions as to why a piglet will need to be taken from it's mother and hand reared by a human surrogate, the main problem, a mother passing in dystocia (difficult birth). There are other reasons a piglet may be removed from it's litter mates but it is always suggested that all other options be sought prior to pulling them. Some animals do really well being hand raised by humans, pigs just flat out aren't one of them. Their survival rate if pulled within the first weeks, is slim to none; they need their mothers and litter mates to survive!
Start by always feeding from a shallow pan or dish. We recommend the tiny, stainless steel, antimicrobial kitten dishes you find at the pet stores (some of them have rubber on the bottom for no skid purposes, those are also desirable). Next, immediately go to a feed store and get powdered milk replacer. Most milk replacers are generic and cover many different species, this is fine and will still work. Just don't buy ones specifically designed for foals/horses or calves, those are all over the market and not as desirable for other livestock. If your piglet was never able to get any colostrum at all, make sure to try and find a powder colostrum replacer too. Another item that may be very beneficial is Gerber Rice Cereal, yes the infant cereal at the grocery store in a box. It is a wonderful additive to the milk replacer once they are successfully drinking it, that will help add many needed key elements to their diet and assist with good growth rate. Some people swear by goats milk as a good piglet milk replacer, you can use this. Do not use cows milk as it is too difficult for piglets to digest. Pigs are fairly easy to switch over to a pan feeding, even as a small piglet (unless the piglet is sick). If you barely touch their little nose in to the pan of milk, they usually want to start drinking immediately (do not shove their nose in the milk and risk them inhaling it). They tend to get the hang of pan feeding in less than 24 hours, so hang in there, it usually isn't too difficult as long as the pig isn't suffering from any undiagnosed ailments. If the piglet is having a hard time with the pan feeding or acts completely uninterested with milk on it's nose, you may have a problem. Call the vet as soon as possible to have them seen. Till then, you can try and get a couple drops in their mouth with an eye dropper.
You will need to feed the piglet every 3-4 hours for the first week. Then, 3-4 times a day till weaned. Right after birth, the piglet should be able to drink about 2 tablespoons of milk at each feeding. This will gradually increase as each day passes. Always warm the milk to body temperature or at least room temperature. Throw the unused milk replacer away every 24 hours and make a new batch for the day. It is always a good idea to make sure that piglets are kept warm till they are 3 weeks old, this is because they cannot produce their own body heat. An ideal temperature that can be produced with heating lamps or a heating pad, is 85-90F degrees. Make sure that the piglet can voluntarily move or get away from the heat source if necessary. Always monitor piglets with heating pads as cords can be chewed on and could easily end up burned or electrocuted. Always keep baby pigs out of wind/drafts.
2) My pig is starting to bite other members of my family, other domestic pets and/or guests. My pig use to be so sweet, what is going on?
This change in behavior lands NUMEROUS pet pigs in shelters each year, on occasion, they are even euthanized. Sadly, this is normal behavior for maturing pigs, both male and female. We tend to see this behavior change around sexual maturity and predominantly in indoor pet pigs. When outdoors and with same species companions, pigs will work out a heirarchy system all on their own. Piglets will do this even within the first weeks after birth; thus the reason it is so important for piglets to stay with their mother and litter mates till properly weaned (6-8 weeks of age). Your sweet and once small piglet, is growing and challenging it's new "herd" (people/guests/pets in the home) for dominance. This behavior has to be addressed immediately before the situation may become dangerous and renders your home unsafe for children and guests. This is where "Shift the Pig" training and a deeper understanding of wild porcine behavior is so important. It is far too detailed to go in to in this small section of frequently asked questions and an entire blog article has already been dedicated to it as well. Click this highlighted sentence to be redirected to our Behavior & Training page. Click the title to be redirected to our Hog Blog.
3) My house trained, female pig is peeing all over the house and getting very pushy, what happened?
If your female pig is young (under 5 months) she could very possibly displaying signs of her first heat cycle (menstrual cycle). Female pigs will display some very odd and upsetting behavior when they are not fixed and we never recommend them as house pets because of this, if they aren't spayed! Their mood cycles will destroy your home and family. Even as outdoor pets, we recommend getting them spayed because this reduces their risk of uterine cancer, which is the highest causes of death in mini pig breeds. A female pig in heat will urinate in front of you, your family and even guests to show everyone that she is ready to mate. Your once perfectly house trained pig will be no more, until her heat cycle has passed. She may start pushing everyone in the family around aggressively due to the hormones. Her vulva (opening below the anus) will swell up due to higher blood flow to the region. This is all normal for a gilt or sow in heat. These behaviors will subside but to have to deal with this approximately every 21 days is extreme. Better to get her fixed and save your sanity, your home and better yet... prolong her life! See our page on Spay & Neuter for more details about swine reproduction.
4) I am finding my pigs teeth around the house, why are they falling out?
Pigs have two sets of teeth, deciduous (baby) and permanant (adult). Piglets will have their third incisors and canine teeth present at birth; we commonly refer to these as the "needle teeth." These teeth if not clipped (typically they aren't clipped in miniature breeds, unlike commercial breeds), will fall out on their own around 3 months of age. The incisors and most of the premolars will be present within 3 months as well. The aforementioned teeth are like baby teeth in humans and will be replaced with permanent teeth around 8-24 months of age.
If your pig is within the 3 month to 2 year range (approximate), seeing teeth fall out is not abnormal. Sometimes you won't even notice or find the teeth as animals accidentally swallow or eat them from time to time; don't worry, this won't hurt your pig. If you pig is older than 3 years and losing teeth (more than just one), you may want to make a trip to the veterinarian. There are many reasons a pig can lose teeth or have dental pain: improper diet/lack of proper vitamins and minerals, abscessed tooth, dental disease and retaining baby teeth that should have fallen out. If you ever second guess if your pig may be displaying dental problems, better to be safe than sorry, and make a vet appointment because a major dental problem/disease can lead to systemic distress if left untreated.
5) How long does it take before my pig will come to me and trust me?
Each pig will be different in their coping abilities and how they will react to a new home. Your pig may be grieving the loss of its mother, siblings or even its prior human family. A bond between a pig and a person takes some time. Get down on the pigs level so that he/she isn’t as scared, obviously food is a big motivator for pigs, but limit the amount of treats you give them. A pig can be socialized with its former family and still have a difficult time adjusting to a new home or a pig may fit right in and be great from day one. There is no exact time frame to offer because every pig will have different needs, personalities and mannerisms. There are certainly exceptions to the rule but expect a month or two of pure dedication and work.
6) How do I know if my pig has a temperature?
When you first bring your pig home, you should take its temperature multiple times so you have a baseline. You will take it rectally with a digital thermometer. Once you establish a baseline, you will know what your pig’s normal temperature is. A baseline should be an average of temperatures taken over several days in different conditions such as, after playing outside, after waking up in the morning, after eating, etc. This will offer a much clearer picture of your pet pigs exact normal temperature range and will aid in telling you when your pig is in fact, running a fever. Every pig, based on their size and age, can run a degree higher or lower, thus the reason we recommend taking an average to establish a baseline. A normal range for potbelly pigs should be close to 99-101F, but again, this may differ slightly on breeding, size and living environments.
7) Where should my pig sleep if it is an indoor pet?
This is a personal decision, we suggest crate training a pig. This provides them with a safe place to go when scared and even a safe way to transport once they’re too big to sit in your lap for a car ride. We never recommend leaving a litter box in a crate though. When an animal is crate trained, you are teaching it to NOT soil in its crate and wait to be taken outside or allowed access to the potty area. If you feel the need to put a litter box inside your pigs crate because of how long you will be away, maybe a pig is not an ideal pet for your situation. On another note, allowing your pig to sleep in the bed can contribute to spoiled pig syndrome in the future. Spoiled pig syndrome is when your pig feels like it should be the center of the universe, this can also sometimes causes aggression and protectiveness. We have a blog dedicated specifically to Spoiled Pig Syndrome that can be found in The Hog Blog. You can also section off your pig in a smaller area, like a laundry room or not frequently used guest bathroom, with a baby gate screwed in to the wall/door jams. Make sure it can access it's litter box and bed. Also make sure to "baby proof" this sectioned off small room, before leaving your pet pig unattended for the evening.
8) When will my pig be able to breed?
Pigs mature sexually very early on, boys can exhibit signs between 8-12 weeks, females can have their first heat cycle around 12 weeks old. If you have unaltered opposite sex pigs together, they CAN and likely WILL breed. Please ensure you spay and neuter or separate until you are able to have this done. Although they reach sexual maturity early on, this is too young to breed pigs and they often pay the ultimate price with their lives due to dystocia (difficult or complicated birth). Small pigs often don’t survive farrowing (birthing) when bred that young.
9) When should I spay/neuter my pig?
The earlier, the better. We recommend between 4-8 months of age if you will be taking them in to a clinic for the procedure. Some vets will treat them younger or based on a minimum weight, so call ahead and ask, again, the younger the better! The larger a pig is, the more expensive surgery typically costs. Having this procedure done at a smaller and younger age reduces the risks to your pig. Once a pig goes into heat, you’ll need to keep track of her menses so you’re able to schedule her spay between cycles. It is a more costly and riskier procedure if your pig is in active heat. Your pig may experience symptoms similar to PMS in women and spaying her also eliminates the risk of her developing reproductive organ cancers (Reproductive tumors are extremely common in female pigs who haven’t been spayed, I’ve heard as high as 90%). Boars are the same, they can be persistent with the desire to mate and can and likely will bite and attempt to mount different objects, people and other animals. Neutering them also eliminates the risk of testicular cancer.
10) How much is it to spay/neuter my pig?
This price will vary from area to area and from vet to vet. Vets with more experience tend to be a tad cheaper than those without a lot of experience. Geographical locations may also play a role in price ranges (i.e... an exotic vet located in a beach city will cost substantially more than a vet in livestock practice that also has mini pig experience and is in a more rural area). I have found that most pig vets will neuter, but not all will spay. A neuter will be less expensive than a spay because neutering is less invasive. The bigger a pig is, typically the costlier the procedure will be, as the surgeon has more tissue to dissect and it takes more anesthesia to keep your pig sedated. Please factor in the costs of anesthesia and pain control after surgery. Some vets don’t include this in the initial price and it is an additional cost. DO NOT allow anyone to do surgery on your pig without anesthesia. This is cruel and can cause such extreme pain that it can lead to other complications.
11) What do I do if my pig wont eat the food I got them?
If this pig is new to your home, he or she is likely scared and isn’t interested in eating that day. Depending on the age, perhaps your pig is too young to eat pelleted feed and a milk replacer would be better suited. Piglets under 7 weeks of age typically could exhibit issues eating pelleted food, if they were not properly weaned. Always give your pig a full day after bringing it home before you panic or try to get creative with feed options. Sometimes they just need an adjustment period. Sometimes pig parents have to be creative with the pelleted feed and add to it in order to entice your pig to eat. Adding appropriate vegetables to your pigs feed can sometimes entice them to eat the pellets. If you’re having an issue with getting your pig to eat vegetables, remember, pigs have 15,000 taste buds and will not necessarily eat everything that’s placed in front of them. Adding hot water to the feed will make it soft for those with issues eating the pellets. Adding oatmeal is sometimes enticing, adding yogurt usually works for the rest, but you will have to develop your own feeding regimen. Please don’t overfeed, obesity is a common problem in potbelly pigs and once the weight is on, its extremely difficult to get the weight off. Same goes for underfeeding. Not only is it cruel, but will not keep a pig small and they need a nutritious diet to develop healthy bones, immune systems overall good health.
12) My pig has a rash that is a red/brown color near the ears, back and sometimes near the eyes. What is this and should I be concerned?
This can be one of two things. First, predominantly pink pigs tend to get what is called "pig rust." This is normal and nothing to be overly concerned about. This rust is either caused by a slight sunburn or dead dirty skin cells and dirt, that easily accumulates in these areas. A warm washcloth and/or mild shampoo may help rid the area of these build ups. For sun protection, make sure your pig either has access to a mud wallowing area (pigs natural protection against harmful rays) or apply proper sunscreen.
If your pig has a persistent rash with small red bumps and a lot of build up, it may be time to deworm them with Ivomec again. Typically, we deworm our pet pigs biannually, once in the spring and again in the fall (about ever 6 months). Both of these milder seasons are a prime time for mites and skin issues to crop up. If you have a an active mite infection, you will need to do an initial dose, then follow it up 14 days later to insure you killed off all life stages of the mites.
There is also a more concerning mite infestation called sarcoptic mange. These mange mites can infect humans and your pig will need to be seen by the vet. You will also need to go to the doctor for a topical ointment/cream that can only be prescribed by your physician; usually a permytherin treatment. If you start itching profusely, don't wait, get looked and have a skin scrapping done immediately. See our page dedicated to Parasite Control for further details.
*Questions Responded to by Jodi Register unless otherwise noted (2015)
1) I rescued/bought a piglet that was too young to leave its mother (or sold a "bottle baby") and it was not weaned properly, what do I do for feeding?
First, never buy in to a breeder that tells you a "bottle baby" is better because it will grow more attached to you. That is unethical and cruel to the piglet. Plus, it will not make your pet more sociable and lovable, it will most likely cause distress, illness and possibly death to the piglet. The youngest age we have seen a piglet successfully weaned and eating hard food, was around 5-6 weeks of age. You never want to purchase a piglet under 8 weeks as they need time to successfully be weaned by the mother at their own pace and as much time as possible with it's siblings to learn proper behavior. Never buy in to actually bottle feeding a baby pig either, that is the last thing you want to do! Unlike other species that do well on a bottle to replace it's mother, pigs do not, they can too easily aspirate on milk from a nipple/bottle; we always pan feed. There are always exceptions as to why a piglet will need to be taken from it's mother and hand reared by a human surrogate, the main problem, a mother passing in dystocia (difficult birth). There are other reasons a piglet may be removed from it's litter mates but it is always suggested that all other options be sought prior to pulling them. Some animals do really well being hand raised by humans, pigs just flat out aren't one of them. Their survival rate if pulled within the first weeks, is slim to none; they need their mothers and litter mates to survive!
Start by always feeding from a shallow pan or dish. We recommend the tiny, stainless steel, antimicrobial kitten dishes you find at the pet stores (some of them have rubber on the bottom for no skid purposes, those are also desirable). Next, immediately go to a feed store and get powdered milk replacer. Most milk replacers are generic and cover many different species, this is fine and will still work. Just don't buy ones specifically designed for foals/horses or calves, those are all over the market and not as desirable for other livestock. If your piglet was never able to get any colostrum at all, make sure to try and find a powder colostrum replacer too. Another item that may be very beneficial is Gerber Rice Cereal, yes the infant cereal at the grocery store in a box. It is a wonderful additive to the milk replacer once they are successfully drinking it, that will help add many needed key elements to their diet and assist with good growth rate. Some people swear by goats milk as a good piglet milk replacer, you can use this. Do not use cows milk as it is too difficult for piglets to digest. Pigs are fairly easy to switch over to a pan feeding, even as a small piglet (unless the piglet is sick). If you barely touch their little nose in to the pan of milk, they usually want to start drinking immediately (do not shove their nose in the milk and risk them inhaling it). They tend to get the hang of pan feeding in less than 24 hours, so hang in there, it usually isn't too difficult as long as the pig isn't suffering from any undiagnosed ailments. If the piglet is having a hard time with the pan feeding or acts completely uninterested with milk on it's nose, you may have a problem. Call the vet as soon as possible to have them seen. Till then, you can try and get a couple drops in their mouth with an eye dropper.
You will need to feed the piglet every 3-4 hours for the first week. Then, 3-4 times a day till weaned. Right after birth, the piglet should be able to drink about 2 tablespoons of milk at each feeding. This will gradually increase as each day passes. Always warm the milk to body temperature or at least room temperature. Throw the unused milk replacer away every 24 hours and make a new batch for the day. It is always a good idea to make sure that piglets are kept warm till they are 3 weeks old, this is because they cannot produce their own body heat. An ideal temperature that can be produced with heating lamps or a heating pad, is 85-90F degrees. Make sure that the piglet can voluntarily move or get away from the heat source if necessary. Always monitor piglets with heating pads as cords can be chewed on and could easily end up burned or electrocuted. Always keep baby pigs out of wind/drafts.
2) My pig is starting to bite other members of my family, other domestic pets and/or guests. My pig use to be so sweet, what is going on?
This change in behavior lands NUMEROUS pet pigs in shelters each year, on occasion, they are even euthanized. Sadly, this is normal behavior for maturing pigs, both male and female. We tend to see this behavior change around sexual maturity and predominantly in indoor pet pigs. When outdoors and with same species companions, pigs will work out a heirarchy system all on their own. Piglets will do this even within the first weeks after birth; thus the reason it is so important for piglets to stay with their mother and litter mates till properly weaned (6-8 weeks of age). Your sweet and once small piglet, is growing and challenging it's new "herd" (people/guests/pets in the home) for dominance. This behavior has to be addressed immediately before the situation may become dangerous and renders your home unsafe for children and guests. This is where "Shift the Pig" training and a deeper understanding of wild porcine behavior is so important. It is far too detailed to go in to in this small section of frequently asked questions and an entire blog article has already been dedicated to it as well. Click this highlighted sentence to be redirected to our Behavior & Training page. Click the title to be redirected to our Hog Blog.
3) My house trained, female pig is peeing all over the house and getting very pushy, what happened?
If your female pig is young (under 5 months) she could very possibly displaying signs of her first heat cycle (menstrual cycle). Female pigs will display some very odd and upsetting behavior when they are not fixed and we never recommend them as house pets because of this, if they aren't spayed! Their mood cycles will destroy your home and family. Even as outdoor pets, we recommend getting them spayed because this reduces their risk of uterine cancer, which is the highest causes of death in mini pig breeds. A female pig in heat will urinate in front of you, your family and even guests to show everyone that she is ready to mate. Your once perfectly house trained pig will be no more, until her heat cycle has passed. She may start pushing everyone in the family around aggressively due to the hormones. Her vulva (opening below the anus) will swell up due to higher blood flow to the region. This is all normal for a gilt or sow in heat. These behaviors will subside but to have to deal with this approximately every 21 days is extreme. Better to get her fixed and save your sanity, your home and better yet... prolong her life! See our page on Spay & Neuter for more details about swine reproduction.
4) I am finding my pigs teeth around the house, why are they falling out?
Pigs have two sets of teeth, deciduous (baby) and permanant (adult). Piglets will have their third incisors and canine teeth present at birth; we commonly refer to these as the "needle teeth." These teeth if not clipped (typically they aren't clipped in miniature breeds, unlike commercial breeds), will fall out on their own around 3 months of age. The incisors and most of the premolars will be present within 3 months as well. The aforementioned teeth are like baby teeth in humans and will be replaced with permanent teeth around 8-24 months of age.
If your pig is within the 3 month to 2 year range (approximate), seeing teeth fall out is not abnormal. Sometimes you won't even notice or find the teeth as animals accidentally swallow or eat them from time to time; don't worry, this won't hurt your pig. If you pig is older than 3 years and losing teeth (more than just one), you may want to make a trip to the veterinarian. There are many reasons a pig can lose teeth or have dental pain: improper diet/lack of proper vitamins and minerals, abscessed tooth, dental disease and retaining baby teeth that should have fallen out. If you ever second guess if your pig may be displaying dental problems, better to be safe than sorry, and make a vet appointment because a major dental problem/disease can lead to systemic distress if left untreated.
5) How long does it take before my pig will come to me and trust me?
Each pig will be different in their coping abilities and how they will react to a new home. Your pig may be grieving the loss of its mother, siblings or even its prior human family. A bond between a pig and a person takes some time. Get down on the pigs level so that he/she isn’t as scared, obviously food is a big motivator for pigs, but limit the amount of treats you give them. A pig can be socialized with its former family and still have a difficult time adjusting to a new home or a pig may fit right in and be great from day one. There is no exact time frame to offer because every pig will have different needs, personalities and mannerisms. There are certainly exceptions to the rule but expect a month or two of pure dedication and work.
6) How do I know if my pig has a temperature?
When you first bring your pig home, you should take its temperature multiple times so you have a baseline. You will take it rectally with a digital thermometer. Once you establish a baseline, you will know what your pig’s normal temperature is. A baseline should be an average of temperatures taken over several days in different conditions such as, after playing outside, after waking up in the morning, after eating, etc. This will offer a much clearer picture of your pet pigs exact normal temperature range and will aid in telling you when your pig is in fact, running a fever. Every pig, based on their size and age, can run a degree higher or lower, thus the reason we recommend taking an average to establish a baseline. A normal range for potbelly pigs should be close to 99-101F, but again, this may differ slightly on breeding, size and living environments.
7) Where should my pig sleep if it is an indoor pet?
This is a personal decision, we suggest crate training a pig. This provides them with a safe place to go when scared and even a safe way to transport once they’re too big to sit in your lap for a car ride. We never recommend leaving a litter box in a crate though. When an animal is crate trained, you are teaching it to NOT soil in its crate and wait to be taken outside or allowed access to the potty area. If you feel the need to put a litter box inside your pigs crate because of how long you will be away, maybe a pig is not an ideal pet for your situation. On another note, allowing your pig to sleep in the bed can contribute to spoiled pig syndrome in the future. Spoiled pig syndrome is when your pig feels like it should be the center of the universe, this can also sometimes causes aggression and protectiveness. We have a blog dedicated specifically to Spoiled Pig Syndrome that can be found in The Hog Blog. You can also section off your pig in a smaller area, like a laundry room or not frequently used guest bathroom, with a baby gate screwed in to the wall/door jams. Make sure it can access it's litter box and bed. Also make sure to "baby proof" this sectioned off small room, before leaving your pet pig unattended for the evening.
8) When will my pig be able to breed?
Pigs mature sexually very early on, boys can exhibit signs between 8-12 weeks, females can have their first heat cycle around 12 weeks old. If you have unaltered opposite sex pigs together, they CAN and likely WILL breed. Please ensure you spay and neuter or separate until you are able to have this done. Although they reach sexual maturity early on, this is too young to breed pigs and they often pay the ultimate price with their lives due to dystocia (difficult or complicated birth). Small pigs often don’t survive farrowing (birthing) when bred that young.
9) When should I spay/neuter my pig?
The earlier, the better. We recommend between 4-8 months of age if you will be taking them in to a clinic for the procedure. Some vets will treat them younger or based on a minimum weight, so call ahead and ask, again, the younger the better! The larger a pig is, the more expensive surgery typically costs. Having this procedure done at a smaller and younger age reduces the risks to your pig. Once a pig goes into heat, you’ll need to keep track of her menses so you’re able to schedule her spay between cycles. It is a more costly and riskier procedure if your pig is in active heat. Your pig may experience symptoms similar to PMS in women and spaying her also eliminates the risk of her developing reproductive organ cancers (Reproductive tumors are extremely common in female pigs who haven’t been spayed, I’ve heard as high as 90%). Boars are the same, they can be persistent with the desire to mate and can and likely will bite and attempt to mount different objects, people and other animals. Neutering them also eliminates the risk of testicular cancer.
10) How much is it to spay/neuter my pig?
This price will vary from area to area and from vet to vet. Vets with more experience tend to be a tad cheaper than those without a lot of experience. Geographical locations may also play a role in price ranges (i.e... an exotic vet located in a beach city will cost substantially more than a vet in livestock practice that also has mini pig experience and is in a more rural area). I have found that most pig vets will neuter, but not all will spay. A neuter will be less expensive than a spay because neutering is less invasive. The bigger a pig is, typically the costlier the procedure will be, as the surgeon has more tissue to dissect and it takes more anesthesia to keep your pig sedated. Please factor in the costs of anesthesia and pain control after surgery. Some vets don’t include this in the initial price and it is an additional cost. DO NOT allow anyone to do surgery on your pig without anesthesia. This is cruel and can cause such extreme pain that it can lead to other complications.
11) What do I do if my pig wont eat the food I got them?
If this pig is new to your home, he or she is likely scared and isn’t interested in eating that day. Depending on the age, perhaps your pig is too young to eat pelleted feed and a milk replacer would be better suited. Piglets under 7 weeks of age typically could exhibit issues eating pelleted food, if they were not properly weaned. Always give your pig a full day after bringing it home before you panic or try to get creative with feed options. Sometimes they just need an adjustment period. Sometimes pig parents have to be creative with the pelleted feed and add to it in order to entice your pig to eat. Adding appropriate vegetables to your pigs feed can sometimes entice them to eat the pellets. If you’re having an issue with getting your pig to eat vegetables, remember, pigs have 15,000 taste buds and will not necessarily eat everything that’s placed in front of them. Adding hot water to the feed will make it soft for those with issues eating the pellets. Adding oatmeal is sometimes enticing, adding yogurt usually works for the rest, but you will have to develop your own feeding regimen. Please don’t overfeed, obesity is a common problem in potbelly pigs and once the weight is on, its extremely difficult to get the weight off. Same goes for underfeeding. Not only is it cruel, but will not keep a pig small and they need a nutritious diet to develop healthy bones, immune systems overall good health.
12) My pig has a rash that is a red/brown color near the ears, back and sometimes near the eyes. What is this and should I be concerned?
This can be one of two things. First, predominantly pink pigs tend to get what is called "pig rust." This is normal and nothing to be overly concerned about. This rust is either caused by a slight sunburn or dead dirty skin cells and dirt, that easily accumulates in these areas. A warm washcloth and/or mild shampoo may help rid the area of these build ups. For sun protection, make sure your pig either has access to a mud wallowing area (pigs natural protection against harmful rays) or apply proper sunscreen.
If your pig has a persistent rash with small red bumps and a lot of build up, it may be time to deworm them with Ivomec again. Typically, we deworm our pet pigs biannually, once in the spring and again in the fall (about ever 6 months). Both of these milder seasons are a prime time for mites and skin issues to crop up. If you have a an active mite infection, you will need to do an initial dose, then follow it up 14 days later to insure you killed off all life stages of the mites.
There is also a more concerning mite infestation called sarcoptic mange. These mange mites can infect humans and your pig will need to be seen by the vet. You will also need to go to the doctor for a topical ointment/cream that can only be prescribed by your physician; usually a permytherin treatment. If you start itching profusely, don't wait, get looked and have a skin scrapping done immediately. See our page dedicated to Parasite Control for further details.
*Questions Responded to by Jodi Register unless otherwise noted (2015)
